To the Very Top
One destination I had planned before hand to see in Yangshuo is Moon Hill (yue liang shan). This mountain is just like the thousands of stone karsts in the region, but it does have a somewhat unique quality. Due to the way erosion has effected the mountain it has a large section missing from the middle, which resembles a moon. Hence, Moon Hill.
After biking over 20 kilometers I was not about to ride a bike anywhere else. I returned the bike and made my way to the only bus station in town. A bus ride from Yangshuo to Moon Hill is only 2.5 RMB each way and takes about 15 minutes. Not a bad deal if you ask me. Most people will probably want to rent a bike and ride there-which I definitely recommend-to experience some of the beautiful countryside along the way. But I had already had more than my fill and I was exhausted. By bus I go.
At first I only wanted to look at Moon Hill from afar and take some pictures. But once I saw it up close I knew I had to climb it. It’s just one of those things you have to do while you’re there, you know? So I started the hike and eventually I made it to the plateau at the base of the “moon.” But it wasn’t easy. On no, not at all. After biking all morning my legs where not happy with climbing a whole bunch of steps up a mountain and they informed me of it frequently. The burn was intense. And let’s not forget that while it is chilly at night this time of year, the afternoons are humid and uncomfortably hot. To say that I was sweating is an understatement. My shirt was completely soaked through. It was hot, got it?
After catching my breath and waving off some very persistent touts selling drinks I wanted to take a look around. I had been told that the views from the top of the mountain were great. I was not disappointed. Despite the overcast sky and fog it was a beautiful sight. In every direction around the mountain you could see more and more of the gorgeous countryside.
I overheard a tout mention there was a path to the very top of the mountain so I quickly jumped at the opportunity. I followed a couple of backpackers up the uncharted trail.
We clambered over rock outcroppings and crept up slippery, muddy slopes. The going was really tough and the vegetation pushed in on all sides, forcing us to navigate quite carefully as we climbed for fear of sliding down the steep slopes. I thought I was going to pass out by the time we made it to the top, but it was totally worth it. We did it! We made it! It was maybe only 100 or 150 meters higher than the plateau but still it was an accomplishment to us. And the unobstructed views of the entire area was even more spectacular.
Getting down the mountain was even more difficult than getting up but eventually we descended without incident. By the time I was on the road waiting for a bus to happen by I could barely stand. I was dehydrated, completely exhausted, and my legs were like jello. Nevertheless I was exhilarated and excited about what a full, great day I had had. From Moon Hill it was a short bus ride back to Yangshuo, a quick bite to eat and then an hour bus ride back to Guilin for the night. Needless to say, I slept very well that night.
Have you ever had one of those totally exhausting and yet totally awesome days while traveling?
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omg, you LOOK totally exhausted, dude! thats a rad “king of the mountain” shot, tho. brilliant job on doin the whole thing, its always worth it for the blood and sweat. i bet you were sore as hell the next day after the ride and the hike.
extensive backpacking around here (nothern california for anyone else reading) has left me feeling like jello MANY times. especially when theres rock hopping involved. just imagine me, doot de doot de doo, fully packed, (fun, yes?). now add river. rivers have rocks. (why herro, rok!). lets make them the only way to get across da river. oh, dont forget! we must make them verrrrry slippery. ya know, cos theyre wet. that was a fun day. one of many semi-permanant rope hand bridges we’ve had to make.
Guilin and Yangshuo are other-worldly. It’s an incredible region and I really want to go back.
@laura: it was a huge pain in the butt and I hurt afterward, but you’re right it was totally worth it. Your backpacking in Cali sounds like fun, I’ll have to try it sometime.
@Stevo: I completely agree. Getting on the plane in Xi’an and then getting off in Guilin was a huge shock to the system. It was like, “hey, it’s all green and stuff here! Oh, there’s a mountain over there! And it’s all green and cool looking! That’s new.”
Those views look absolutely amazing. And, as you saw in the pictures/writings of my blog, I had that same tired but satisfied feeling quite recently.
Yeah the views were totally worth the pain and suffering I endured over the entire weekend. That feeling is great, isn’t it? It’s like a total body high. Just really incredible.