And Now, the Small One

The Big Wild Goose Pagoda is a significant tourist draw here in Xi’an.  The structure itself is quite a sight to see, but that is not to forget the beautiful Temple of Heavenly Grace that surrounds it.  Simply put it is one of my favorite attractions here.  Of course with a name like Big Wild Goose Pagoda, one might come to the conclusion that there is some other Wild Goose Pagoda.  Let’s briefly consider the possibilities: Really Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Great Wild Goose Pagoda, Small Wild Goose Pagoda, Minuscule Wild Goose Pagoda.  And so on and so forth.

So which one is it?  Unless you are a really bad guesser you should have quickly come to the conclusion that the only other pagoda (that I’m aware of) is the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.  So that is what I went to see.

The pagoda was built between 707 and 709 and is situated next to Dajianfu Temple and a modern museum.  An attempt at making the complex picturesque resulted in the entire area looking over-produced and commoditized.  An all-too-common occurrence in China.  Cement pathways and bridges around man-made lakes and a small merry-go-round blaring mind-numbingly annoying music,

as you can imagine, did not improve the ambiance.  Granted, there is plenty of green.  And I like green.  Trees, bushes, plants, grass.  All good stuff.  But apart from the few sections where you are surrounded by vegetation, the area feels just a bit too sterile to be enjoyed.  Even the man-made lake has an ugly quality to it.

Climbing to the top of the pagoda provides mixed results.  Yes, you are at the very top of the structure.  Yes, it is open to the elements, which allows for some nice views of the surrounding area.  The downsides?  Tall metal bars on all sides made me feel a little claustrophobic and caged in.  Also, the very top is so small that 10 people make it crowded.  When I went there must have been 15 people (possibly even 20) at the top, all trying to jockey for a good view or a nice photo opportunity.

There is not much left of the original temple.  Just a few columns in one little “museum” that is clearly more gift-shop than trove of history.  I did find a small collection of statues on pedestals.  I know nothing about these statues and I cannot fathom what they were once for.  Nevertheless I find them very interesting.  And I am seeing them more and more on my trips to temples around the city.  At the very least some of them are quite comical.

The museum part of the attraction is sub par, in my opinion.  The one highlight is an extensive collection of paintings and calligraphy.  There are some truly beautiful works in there.  But really, when in Xi’an, if you want to go to a museum, go to the Shaanxi History Museum.  It is a hell of a lot better and bigger, and it’s free.

My conclusion?  The 50 RMB ticket price is very steep for so little that’s offered.  I was able to use my expired student card to get the 50% discount, but even at 25 RMB I’m not so sure the journey is worth the time.  I think a climb to the top of the pagoda and a quick stroll through the temple area is more than sufficient.  I’m glad I went because I live here and I have plenty of time to see as many sights as possible in the city.  But for a traveler on a schedule, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda simply does not have enough to offer to warrant avoiding some other great sites.

Related Posts:

1. You’re Still a Tourist When You Move Somewhere New
2. A Visit to the Museum
3. Buddhist Figure