Surviving Xi’an: 5 More Things to Know
This is an ongoing list of things that I feel are important to know when visiting Xi’an (really all of China, but whatever). The first installment I wrote can be found here.
6. There is no such thing as a queue
The general rule of thumb in China is: push and shove, push and shove! If you’re not fast enough people will dart around you to go first. Even when there is some semblance of a line, if you leave even a foot gap between you and the next person someone else will get in there and take the next spot. It seems like people here have no regard, nor patience, for someone going too slow. Literally it’s survival of the fittest. When hailing a taxi, it’s not uncommon for some Chinese people to race to the cab and take it first. Even if the taxi clearly stopped for you, you can still get screwed out of it. Whoever gets there first, gets the taxi. It’s that simple.
If you are waiting to order something at a cart or small shop (or pretty much anywhere) you need to be loud and assertive. Otherwise Chinese people will simply walk up and yell their order out, and they will be helped first. First come, first serve. Don’t wait for anyone to come help you. If you do who knows how long you could be waiting.
7. The Chinese will take your picture
More Chinese have never encountered foreigners than most would like to imagine. I was surprised at how many people here had never seen one. Therefore, as a tourist in China, people will inevitably take your picture. They will tell you that you are very cool, or that you are handsome or beautiful, or that your country is great, in an attempt to convince you that they are worthy to be in the same photograph as you. They will want to have a picture with you so they can show their friends and family: “Look ma! A real, live foreigner!”
Sometimes they will try to be sneaky about it to get your picture. As if you’re some rare animal found in the wild. Most of the time a hastily elected delegate will approach you. Amid nervous grins and muffled giggles they will ask to have a photo with you–because you are so cool. One time I had a girl follow me very closely around a temple while her friends tried to sneak a picture without me knowing. It was definitely one of those “what the hell?” moments. Of course once I noticed what was going on she asked if it was OK and I was happy to oblige. So get used to having Chinese ask to take your picture, or try to drag you (or sneak you, in my case) into a group photo with them. And remember, they love it when you make the peace sign with your fingers.
8. The long pinky fingernail is for picking … things
A long fingernail on the pinky is a common sight, especially for the men. And what is it for, you ask? Surely it does not hark back to the days when aristocrats used their long nail to take snuff? No, not at all. These days, the nail is for a much more unpleasant affair. It is for picking. Picking the ears, nose, and teeth. And probably in that order, too. Chinese men and women think nothing of picking their nose in plain view. I’ve seen them dig quite ferociously in their ear, withdraw the digit, examine it, and finish off with a precursory cleaning of the teeth. Lovely.
9. Hello Road Construction, Goodbye Schedule
The Government is building a subway that will run North and South through the entire city. It has been going on for several months now and I can only imagine it will go on for many more. Currently there is no digging for the subway; the road must be widened first. I assume this is to accommodate the traffic issues that will inevitably occur when construction on the subway starts. So they are only widening the road, no big deal, right? Wrong. Very, very wrong. The main road that runs North-South through the city is completely backed up with traffic from the South all the way up to the South Gate at all times of day. The amount of cars is unbelievable in and of itself. But the amount of traffic jams that this construction is causing is simply incredible.
When I first came here at the beginning of the semester there was no construction and there were no traffic problems out of the ordinary. But now there are many problems. It takes at least double the amount of time to get anywhere in Xi’an if you plan on taking Chang’an South Road. It’s as simple as that. And because Chang’an Road is backed up, all of the roads branching off of it are constantly backed up. And all of the roads immediately parallel to Chang’an Road are usually backed up. Sometimes I am just flabbergasted at the problems that are being caused and the poor level of planning that clearly went into this project. And to think, this period is just to make the road wider, they haven’t even begun to work on the subway!
10. A Shocking Revelation: The Muslim Quarter is a Tourist Trap
As if any city in China could be complete without a first-rate tourist trap? Xi’an’s tourist trap is the Muslim Quarter, and it’s one of the better ones I’ve seen in China thus far. There are an endless amount of shops, restaurants, stalls, carts, and so on and so forth. The labyrinthine network of streets, alleys and cul-de-sacs seems designed to keep you shopping and won’t let you go. All of the restaurants are overpriced and anyone trying to sell you anything (and you can find literally anything in this market, even puppies) will undoubtedly quote to you a price 3 or 4 times higher than the actual value.
While touring the market is one of my favorite activities in Xi’an, I rarely ever buy anything. And unless you find something you absolutely must have right on the spot, I suggest you do the same. I find it entertaining to stroll through the area, listening to the endless numbers of people hawking and haggling. Playfully quipping at the Chinese trying to sell me things I don’t need (why on Earth someone would try to sell me a wristwatch while I’m wearing one is beyond me). It’s all good fun. Especially at night, the Muslim Quarter is quite the sight to see. But remember, look but don’t touch. Unless you are an experienced haggler or particularly determined to get a good deal (which requires a lot more effort than most people are willing to put forth), you will invariably get ripped off. But don’t fret, it happens to everyone in China at some point.
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Hehe. I believe the long pinky nail, other than it’s picking ability, is prized as a status symbol. The bearer can have a long nail because he does not work in a factory or the fields.
Most of the long pinky nails I see belong to taxi drivers. Frankly, a factory worker or field hand is less likely to rape your wallet. Pirates, I tells ya!
Yes, the nail is mostly a status symbol. But the way in which most people use it makes me think that it is becoming less and less a symbol every day and more an outdated throwback to a time when those things meant more to people.
Damn, sneaky pirates!
I once pulled a woman out of a cab downtown who dared to get in in front of me at 4pm when they all go off duty. I had waited for 20+ minutes, and she steps in front of the curb after 30 seconds and grabs one. Oh hells no! I dove in after her and pulled her out all the way from the backseat and to her great surprise had no problem telling her in Chinese I was crazy. She let me have it.
the sign they are making is V for victory, not peace.
The long pinky nail is hot. I almost puked writing that just now. I think one of its original uses must have been to distinguish leisure class as well because a rural farmer would never be able to keep their nails long while toiling in the fields, correct? But long story short in recent years I’ve seen it used to snort coke or a lesser variety at Yi Jia Yi (1+1 Club)-So its got a variety of functions.
Remember when we hit up the MQ and the shop keeper went crazy on the foreign girls for dropping a tin cup? Ah memories.