A Night on Karakul Lake in a Yurt
Despite all the troubles I had in Kashgar, and the fact that I was initially not allowed outside of the city, I did eventually make it to Karakul Lake. After my return to my hostel with my tail firmly between my legs, I spent the rest of the day brooding. The following day was when I nearly got kicked out of my hostel. So instead of dealing with that incomprehensible hassle I decided I was going to get to Karakul no matter the cost.
For reasons I can’t remember, I had decided that Karakul Lake was the main reason why I came all the way out to Kashgar. Leaving without seeing this famous lake would be a big defeat in my book. And I just can’t have that, now can I?
It was surprisingly easy to arrange for a travel permit and a guide through my hostel. For anyone thinking of visiting Kashgar, I strongly suggest staying at Kashgar Old City Hostel. It’s an awesome, laid-back place with a very nice staff whom all speak very good English. To top it all off, the hostel is right on the edge of the Old City. Or at least what’s left of it, anyway.
I ended up forking over 600 RMB for my permits and guide. And another 50 RMB for my stay in the yurt. Obviously if I could have waited around for some other travelers to join up with it would have been much cheaper. But I was on a tight schedule and was determined to make sure I got to Karakul no matter what.
I’m serious about never going back to Kashgar. So what’s 650 RMB for a once in a life time opportunity? Money well spent, if you ask me.
The 5 star accommodations of the night. There are five of these cement yurts sitting in a row. Each yurt is about 15 feet in diameter and 12 feet high at the peak. Each has a single stove in the middle to generate heat and cook food. There’s not much greenery to speak of, let alone trees or bushes. Therefore the Uyghurs use animal manure in the stove. Although it does burn well, it creates a none-too-pleasant odor that stuck to my clothes for the next few days. That is definitely one part of the experience I would not want to repeat.
Being that I was visiting during the off-season there were only two yurts open. The other three lay empty. In the background you can see a sliver of Karakul Lake and the mammoth Muztagata Mountain partially hidden by the clouds. We slept literally a stone’s throw away from the lake and in the shadow of the mountain.
A proper look at Karakul and Muztagata. I’ve read that during the summer the water is like a mirror of the mountains and sky. Unfortunately the cold winter winds never stopped blowing, resulting in the choppy water before you. The surrounding area was generally cold, damp, and gray. Not surprising, really, considering it was October.
Despite the fact that I didn’t get to see the “mirror lake” I was still surprised at how beautiful it is. For the most part the clouds obstructed the full view of the mountains. Nevertheless they made for an impressive sight. The pictures don’t really do them justice, I’m afraid.
I implore you. Don’t make the same, stupid mistake I made. I went up to Karakul Lake with only the clothes you see me wearing. And a vest. Holy crap is it cold up there. And in October? Forget about it. Literally within 5 minutes of being outside my limbs were numb. It was incredibly stupid of me not to think that a lake at 11,800 feet would not be cold at that time of year. Even in the summer I imagine it gets chilly.
Anyway, here I am reclining on one of the many bright, colorful sleeping pads the family laid out for me. It was surprisingly soft and the equally colorful blanket they gave me was quite warm. Sleeping inside the squat, round, cement home was definitely a pleasant experience.
You’ll also notice I am holding a beer. I was joined in my yurt by four foreigners traveling together. It just so happened to be one of their birthdays so they had brought a case of beer up into the mountains to celebrate. They were kind enough to share with me. They all made it through one beer before passing out due to the altitude. For some reason I had no problem with it. Either it was the first few days spent in Kashgar (4,100 feet) acclimating me or my asthma medication (I have no idea why that would help, I’m just venturing a guess here). Actually, you would think that due to my asthma the altitude sickness would hit me worse, no?
We were treated to this wholesome breakfast in the morning. Possibly the hardest bread I have ever attempted to chew. It was like a rock. The Uyghur bread is very flavorful, but also very difficult to eat. The easiest way to eat it is to soak it in the infamous Yak milk tea.
I would describe Yak milk tea as an acquired taste. Immediately following the first sip I nearly gagged. But after cautiously sampling it throughout the morning, I came to conclusion that it is indeed possible to enjoy this concoction. Yak milk tea is regular green tea with, you guessed it, Yak milk in it. Also, a TON of salt. It is really, really salty. It reminds me a lot of Turkish ayran; a salty yogurt drink. But this Uyghur drink is hot and more liquid-y. Basically a lot more unpleasant to drink.
By the end of breakfast I was nearly half-way to actually enjoying it. I enjoy almost anything I eat or drink so that can give you an idea of how bad I think it is. But I do see the merits of it buried way down underneath the salt. It might have been the delicious bread I was dipping into it, i don’t know. Regardless, this salty drink is not for the weak stomach’d traveler out there. You have been warned.
Despite the overcast skies the day before, the sun did decide to come out bright and strong the next morning. There was a thick fog coming off the lake, providing for a really beautiful glow over the water. The previous day’s weather disappointed me a bit; I was expecting much more picturesque scenery.
By the end of my stay on the lake, in a yurt, I was in high spirits and satisfied that all of the trouble and expense I went through to get there was well worth it. I can only imagine what the lake and mountains look like during the spring and summer. Absolutely beautiful, I’m sure.
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