My Last Stop in Xinjiang: Turpan
Holy cow I can’t believe I’ve gone an entire month without writing anything here. Poor form on my part. But to be honest I’ve been shying away from writing because it slowly became less and less like fun, and more like work. I was forcing it. And I’m still forcing it right now. But I started this whole debacle and, damn it, I’m going to finish it.
And how many months has it been since I was actually in Xinjiang? It’s almost embarrassing that I’ve allowed so much time to pass before actually getting around to writing about the place. I was there in the beginning of October and now it’s March. Not good.
The final leg of my trip in Xinjiang was a stop in Turpan. The city is at an elevation of 98 feet above sea level and is known for very cold winters and very hot summers. While I was there it was easily in the 70s.
Turpan is known for its large production of high quality fruit. This is a result of the combination of the hot, dry summers and a vast, ancient irrigation network. And let me tell you, the fruit I ate there was really delicious.
If you want to visit all of the major sites around Turpan, you need to rent a car for the day. These sites are scattered all about and it’s just too far to go on your own. I was approached by a man putting a minibus tour together and I signed up with him.
Our first stop was at some culture museum. I did not go in. I was on a tight budget after splurging to get to Karakul Lake and the place’s big attraction was a spring. I’ve been to places like this and I could tell from a glance that it would be a big waste of time.
The driver, a nice Uyghur man, asked me, “Are you going in?”
“No, I don’t think it is interesting.”
“You’re right, it’s not. I don’t know why Chinese like this place.”
“Me neither.”
As it turned out my highlight of the day, despite all of the places we visited, was hanging out with the driver chatting. It was fun practicing my Chinese and he was a very nice man. I feel lucky I had this driver to talk to because most of the tourist attractions are not worth visiting. They are a big waste of time.
After the cultural museum we drove past the Flaming Mountain (we didn’t stop and neither should you, buy a postcard if you must) and stopped at the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves. I think it should be renamed the 10 Buddha Caves. There’s nothing there. Almost all of the carvings and murals have been destroyed. I was in and out in 20 minutes, about half as long as it took to get there. A waste of time.
We also stopped at a burial ground where only three tombs were open. Another 20 minutes wasted. And we stopped at a place where a lot of grapes are grown. Yawn.
Another stop was at Gaochang, one of the two ancient cities outside of Turpan. If you’re really into the ancient history and historical sites, it can be worth your while. I am into that stuff so I thought it was pretty neat. Unfortunately there is not much left of the city. There are plenty of mounds of what used to be buildings and some walls like in the picture above. And there is a large temple at the back that is impressive. Other than that, not much to see.
Jiaohe is definitely the star attraction in Turpan. This ancient city is mostly still standing. Granted that ‘mostly’ is just the walls, but you can clearly see the delineation between different buildings. Situated on a large plateau, the city provides for hours of wandering. It was a surreal experience and reminded me very much of wandering through Pompeii. So if you’re into that, you’ll love Jiahe.
Jiaohe was the last stop for the day, so we arrived a little late (around 5 or 6 PM I think). Right in that “golden hour” for photography. Although it meant I didn’t have nearly as much time as I would have liked to wander and explore before it got dark, I did come away with plenty of amazing photographs.
I think it’s pretty hard not to take a great photo when presented with this maze of ancient buildings kissed by the setting sun. In that hour before the sun finally went down, the place was just beautiful.
So that’s it for Turpan. My advice? Visit Jiaohe and skip everything else. It’s really not worth the expense and the time. Take that extra time and relax, eat fruit, drink beer, and enjoy the warm weather.
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Wild pictures, Graham! Reminds me of Petra, Jordan.
(keep up the writing!)
Great pictures!
It’s a shame you didn’t get to enjoy all the other sites around Turpan. I think that most tourist, like you, don’t get to really experience these places because the Turpan Tourism Board does a horrible job of educating travelers about why these places are so important and interesting.
I suggest you read a book called Foreign Devils on the Silk Road. Coincidentally, I just reviewed it on my website (check it out here) and I think it gives a historical depth to any trip to Xinjiang – whether you’ve already been or you plan to go again.
Glad you at least liked Jiaohe…but what about the Emin Minaret?
Nice pictures, Graham. I think you’ve definitely met your goal of improving on your photography. Congrats!
@Alan: Thanks man. I watched your video of Petra and that was some pretty impressive stuff. I think Turpan doesn’t even come close to comparing in grandeur. But I do see the parallel.
@Josh: I’ll be sure to check out that book. I’ve heard a few things about it here and there (namely from your site). I didn’t get a chance to visit the Emin Minaret. In hindsight, considering all the time I wasted visiting sites not worth seeing, I’m disappointed I didn’t get to see that.
@Carrie: Thanks! Photography is turning into a minor passion of mine (when I’m fully up to the task of course, it can be exhausting sometimes). So I really appreciate your praise. And I’d be happy to accept any and all input on my photos.
Look forward to my very first photo essay tomorrow. I’d love to know what all of you think, and I’d love to get advice on what I did wrong and what I did right.